Victorian Era Men's Fashion 1890s Blazer

Private Collage Images Courtesy of LACMA, Met Museum, and the Kyoto Costume Constitute.

Men'southward fashion changed very little during the nineteenth century, peculiarly when compared to women'southward mode of the same period. For this reason, I thought it improve to provide a general overview of the century, looking at changes decade-by-decade every bit opposed to twelvemonth-by-year. In this mode, you lot can encounter the boring evolution of nineteenth century menswear, from the Regency dandyism of Swain Brummell to the matched 3-piece suits of the belatedly Victorian era. Changes were subtle, only significant, each of them moving men's way one pace closer to the elegant silhouettes still evidenced in stylish menswear of today.

*Please note: This is a cursory, primarily visual, overview of men's mode in the nineteenth century. For in-depth information on private decades, please consult the recommended links.

1800

Inbound the nineteenth century, men were no longer wearing the fancy fabrics and trimmings that characterized their clothing in the 1700s. Instead—under the influence of George Bryan "Boyfriend" Brummel—men'south fashion was gradually moving toward the restrained, conservative costumes that would ready the tone for the rest of the century.

Caricature of Fellow Brummell by Robert Dighton, 1805.

Short-fronted tailcoats and fitted waistcoats were worn over plain, white linen shirts. Tight-plumbing equipment pantaloons replaced eighteenth century knee breeches, Hessian boots replaced buckled shoes, and intricately tied, white linen neck cloths became the marking of the true human being of fashion.

Cutaway Tail Coat, 1805-1810.
(Mint Museum)

Each commodity of clothing was impeccably made, tailored on simple lines and cut from dark or neutral fabrics. Much of the embellishment in this decade was saved for the waistcoat. Adding to this fashionable, yet understated, ensemble was a  tall, beaver hat (similar to the ane shown above) and various accessories such as canes, pocket watches, and quizzing spectacles.

Menswear, 1806.

1810

Advancing into 1810, the fashion for simple, well-cut wear—in the way of Young man Brummell—had go very much the norm. Men of the upper-classes continued to habiliment double-breasted dress coats of fine wool and light-coloured waistcoats over white linen shirts. Buckskin breeches and top-boots were de rigueur for the admirer in the land (see below), while tight-fitting pantaloons and Hessians remained the way in town.

Portrait of Joseph-Antoine de Nogent by Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, 1815.
( Harvard Art Museums/Fogg Museum)

For evening clothes, gentlemen wore knee breeches of black or light-coloured satin or velvet with white stockings, a white waistcoat, and a dark tail-glaze.

Full Clothes of a Gentleman, Ackermann's Plate, 1810.

In 1816, the frock glaze was introduced. Dissimilar long-tailed dress coats, frock coats had a waist seam and a total skirt which hung down to the knees. Initially viewed as existence rather informal, the frock coat would somewhen become a wardrobe staple.

1815 Wool Tailcoat.
(Met Museum)

1820 Frock Coat.
(LACMA)

1820

Past the 1820s,  the silhouette of gentlemen'southward way was beginning to modify. Coat sleeves began to puff at the shoulders, chests swelled out, and waistlines narrowed to an frequently extreme degree.  This hourglass silhouette—frequently enhanced with padding and corsetry—would remain stylish into the early 1830s.

Costume Parisien, 1826.

Meanwhile, trousers (or trowsers) were becoming fashionable for day wear. Trousers by and large had a fall front which buttoned at the waist and a strap at the foot to ensure that they fell smoothly on the leg.

1820s Woollen Trousers with Figured Silk Waistcoat.
(Fashion Museum Bathroom)

Some gentlemen preferred loose-plumbing equipment Cossack trousers.  Inspired by the trousers worn by Cossack soldiers who visited London with Alexander I of Russia in 1814, Cossack trousers were pleated at the waist and full in the hips and thighs.

1820-1830 Cossack Trousers.
(Victoria and Albert Museum)

1830

Inbound the 1830s, trousers were fuller in the leg and frockcoats began to be fabricated in a variety of designs, suitable for every taste and every occasion.

1828-1830 Frock Coat.
(Victoria and Albert Museum)

At the aforementioned time, waistcoats became a bit more elaborate. They were made of rich fabrics like velvet and jacquard-woven silk and embellished with embroidery, patterns, and prints.

1830s Wool Tailcoat, Cotton Twill Trousers, and Cut-Velvet Patterned Vest.
(Kyoto Costume Found)

Past the late 1830s, elaborately tied white cravats and neck cloths had fallen from favor for day wear. In their place were blackness neckties,  knotted in a manner non besides dissimilar from a bow tie.

1833 Blue Silk Coat.
(Met Museum)

1840

Moving into the 1840s, the Victorian era was well and truly underway. In her 2001 book Pantaloons and Power, fashion historian Gayle Fischer states that this was the decade when:

"Men gave up their claims to decoration, colors, and lace, and adopted a more uniform way of dress, thereby making fashion and all its accoutrements the sole province of women."

1845-1853 Trousers.
(Victoria and Albert Museum)

Trousers of the 1840s were fuller and, equally the decade progressed, the strap at the foot disappeared and autumn fronts were replaced by a wing front design.

L'Oriflamme des Modes, 1840.

The 1840s is likewise notable for being the decade that introduced the sack glaze. Unlike a frock coat, the sack glaze was short, unmarried-breasted, unlined, and loose-fitting. The sack coat was generally worn for sporting or country pursuits. For all other occasions, men donned a frock coat or a tailcoat.

1845 Cotton wool and Linen Adapt.
(Museum at FIT)

1850

Advancing into the 1850s, the waistline of apron coats began to lower, eliminating the high-waisted look of earlier decades.

1852 Frock Coat and Trousers.
(LACMA)

Meanwhile, sack coats grew in popularity, with many of them being made to match a gentleman'southward trousers.  Frock coats and tailcoats were as well occasionally made to lucifer, every bit illustrated by the black trousers and coat seen below.

1850 Black Wool Suit with Checkered Vest.
(Museum at FIT)

Despite the prevalence of matching coats and trousers in somber hues, some stylish gentlemen favored patterned trousers. Through much of the 1850s and into the 1860s, gentlemen could exist seen wearing striped or checked trousers, often in relatively vivid colors. With the invention of aniline dye in 1856, these colors became fifty-fifty more vivid and—on occasion—rather garish.

L'Elegant, 1853.

1860

Moving into the 1860s, apron coats were no longer as stylish equally they had been in previous decades. Instead, for breezy occasions, nigh gentlemen preferred the sack coat.

1865-1870 Wool Suit.
(Met Museum)

Trousers of the 1860s were creased, with many gentlemen continuing to opt for striped or plaid fabric. Different designs of checks or stripes were popular in dissimilar seasons. For example, the 1867 edition of the Due west-Terminate Gazette of Gentlemen'south Manner reports that for May of that year:

"Trousering of large check designs are quite the rage among fashionable dressing men; the nearly favourite blueprint is a check formed of three or four lines of a subdued tint, with a big check of a fine line of blueish or other brilliant colour intermingled."

1860-1870 Wool Plaid Suit.
(LACMA)

The 1860s is notable for being the decade when the iii-piece adjust began to sally. Made in matched blackness, brown, or other dark hues, three-piece suits were by and large worn with white shirts and dark-coloured cravats.

1867-1868 Black Wool Three-Piece Suit.
(Met Museum)

1870

Entering 1870, the Gentleman'southward Magazine of Manner reports that coats were cut "a slight degree shorter" than in previous seasons. Coats were also straighter and cutting closer to the shape, with longer waists and narrow sleeves.

1870-1800 Wool Twill Trousers.
(Victoria and Albert Museum)

Frock coats were nonetheless in fashion for formal day wear. Morning time coats, which were single-breasted and cut abroad from the front, were as well quite pop. For concern wearing apparel or less formal day dress, the sack suit dominated the decade.

Admirer's Mag of Manner, 1876.

Waistcoats connected to exist worn, but were usually hidden backside loftier-buttoned coats. They were generally fabricated to lucifer coats and trousers. As for trousers themselves, they changed very trivial in the final quarter of the nineteenth century. During the 1870s, they were cut a bit fuller for twenty-four hours wear, with the knee joint measuring the same width equally at the ankle. For evening clothing, trousers were slightly narrower.

1870-1880 Wool Trousers.
(Victoria and Albert Museum)

1880

Advancing into 1880, most gentlemen of fashion endemic several styles of coat, including a frock coat, tailcoat, cutaway glaze, and sack coat.

1880 Morning time Coat and Vets.
(LACMA)

The sack coat was initially the least formal choice, however, toward the finish of the decade, a dressier version of the black sack coat was introduced in Tuxedo, New York. This tuxedo jacket—or dinner jacket as it was known outside of the United states of america—would become a mainstay of men'due south evening wear for decades to come.

1885 Evening Adapt with Dinner Jacket.
(Victoria and Albert Museum)

Matched three-slice suits in blacks, browns, and tweeds continued to be quite fashionable. Trousers patterned in bright plaids or checks were also rather popular, especially when paired with nighttime coats.

1885 Wedding Adjust with Cutaway Coat.
(Philadelphia Museum of Art)

1890

Moving into the 1890s, the morning coat began to rival the frock coat for formal day clothing. For breezy occasions, the sack coat remained popular.

1894 J.B. Johnstone Wool Morning Adjust.
(Met Museum)

Trousers were narrow and—thanks to the invention of the trouser press—were oft creased down the front and the back. As for men'due south shirts, the 1894 edition of the Clothier and Furnisher reports that:

"…colored starched shirts, with cuffs to match and white collars, are all the go."

1897 Fock Coat, Vest, and Striped Wool Trousers.
(Philadelphia Museum of Art)

By the 1890s, well-nigh men were wearing either neckties or bow ties. For day wear, these ties could be solid or patterned. For evening article of clothing, they were white.

The Sartorial Fine art Periodical, 1894.

A Few Final Words…

I hope the above overview has given you a full general idea of the changes in men's manner during the nineteenth century. Once more, I remind yous that this is just a brief, primarily visual guide. If you lot would like to larn more than well-nigh nineteenth century men's fashion, including details on men's hats, shoes, and accessories,  I encourage you to consult a reliable reference book.  The following links may provide a starting point:

Nineteenth Century Fashion in Particular by Lucy Johnston

Mode: The Definitive History of Costumeand Style past DK Publishing

L'Elegant, 1857.

---

Sources

Blanco, José.  Clothing and Fashion: American Fashion from Caput to Toe.  Santa Barbara: ABC-CLIO, 2015.

The Clothier and Furnisher, Vol. 23. New York: Masson Publishing, 1894.

Mode: The Definitive History of Costume and Style. New York: DK Publishing, 2001.

Fischer, Gayle V. Pantaloons & Ability: A Nineteenth-century Clothes Reform in the United states. Kent: Kent Country University Printing, 2001.

The Admirer's Mag of Way. London: Louis Devere & Co., 1870.

The Gentleman'south Magazine of Mode. London: Louis Devere & Co., 1871.

Johnson, Lucy.Nineteenth Century Fashion in Item. London: Victoria & Albert Museum, 2009.

Norris, Herbert and Curtis, Oswald. Nineteenth-century Costume and Fashion, Book 6. Mineola: Dover Publications, 1998.

Nunn, Joan. Fashion in Costume, 1200-2000. Chicago: New Amsterdam Books, 2000.

The Due west-Stop Gazette of Gentlemens' Fashions. London: Kent and Co., 1867.

Share this post